Why I surf

Marie-Christine Amyot —

Why I Surf…

I surf because I need a constant adrenaline rush, otherwise I get bored.

I surf because I love hearing my heart beat after a nice long wave.

 I surf because when I face my fears, I make myself proud.

 I surf to feel free.

 I surf to find inspiration.

 I surf for those days where I wake up and the waves are just so unexpectedly perfect.

 I surf for those nights where I lie in bed feeling a mix of fear and excitement because I know that the next day the waves are going to be so fucking big.

 I surf to work out because, well, gym sucks.

 I surf for the anxious little girl in me, unable to stop that spinning carousel in her mind.

 I surf because the ocean has an incredible peaceful energy that calms me.

 I surf for those sessions where Mama Ocean and I are totally connected and she just keeps on sending me good waves.

 I surf because I love feeling so fucking hungry after a session, so I eat whatever I feel like.

 I surf to get tired and allow myself to do a big long afternoon nap.

 I surf because early wake-ups mean I cant party: surfing > hungover

 I surf for those moments where Im like this is how Coco Ho must feel when she surfs. #lol

 I surf to have Instagram pictures and then wait for the likes to come. #LOL



And yet sometimes, I get so frustrated with surfing that I question why the fuck I even do this every day.

 I get mad at the crowd that wont let me take a wave.

 I get angry at the waves because they decide to break just where Im not.

 I get upset when I finally catch a wave, only to wipe out and fall head first.

 Even if you are Mama Oceans most loyal devotee, you cant stop her doing what she wants to do. Shell make you wipe out and just when youre coming up for air, shell send you a big powerful wave on the head, holding you down until youre down to your last reserves of breath.

 Heres for having negative thoughts about me, she says.

 Shes right and will always be right.



Beginners sometimes tell me: I just want to be able to stand up!

 I always tell them: that wont be all you want.

 Youll want to get up faster, get up with more grace. And then youll want to learn the next thing. Always seeking the next step.

 Personally I am now at that point where I want to improve my style and do stronger manoeuvres. Ive been surfing for five years, yet Im still not satisfied. I remember a few years ago when all I wanted was to be able to stand up on the board.

 After that, I wanted to actually ride the wave.

 When I had learnt to do that, I started craving bigger waves.

 And once I started getting bigger waves, all I wanted to carve in the wave.

 So why am I not satisfied with my surfing yet?!



Here’s the biggest thing that gets in the way of adults progressing in their surfing:

 We think if we can want it bad enough we will improve and progress. If overthink surf down to every last detail, we will progress. But thats not it at all.

 To progress in surf you cant think too much about it.

 Ever wondered why kids progress so fast in surfing?

 Because they dont think too much.

 Because theyre having fun.

Right now I want to progress in my surfing, and to do that my mentality now is: just surf like a kid.

 Surfing is one of the, if not the most beautiful thing that has ever happened to me.

 It showed me a different way to see life. It brought me to a life I previously would never have imagined to be possible. It led me to my dream job, where the wave forecasts make my agenda and my schedule depends on the tides.

 So yeah, Im working hard on being able to be satisfied, content. Im grateful for being able to surf. Even when Im being held under by an eight-foot closeout. Even when I scrape the bottom of my feet on the rocks. Im so grateful.

 I missed the final reason I surf;

 I surf because, well, it’s fun.